The closes of the Royal Mile: secret alleys between history and legend
What are the closes
Organizingholidays in Edinburghand only walking the main Royal Mile means missing the true soul of the city. Thecloses(pronounced "close", from the English "close" = alley) are narrow passages that branch off from the Royal Mile, once access points to inner courtyards, houses, taverns, and prisons. Today many are still walkable and tell stories of medieval life, trade, and ghosts.
The most famous closes (and what they hide)
Advocate's Close (near the Castle)
One of the most photographed closes, with a view of the castle. In the 16th century, lawyers (advocates) and notaries lived here. Today it houses offices and the restaurant The Devil's Advocate. Best visited at sunset.
Warriston's Close (after St. Giles)
Named after a family of merchants. At No. 1, a plaque commemorates that the poet William Drummond lived here. The close is a steep descent, with original cobblestones.
Lady Stair's Close (near the Writers' Museum)
Named after Lady Stair (who lived in the building now a museum). Inside, the Writers' Museum (free). The close is paved and well-preserved.
Brodie's Close (near the Mercat Cross)
Famous for Deacon Brodie, a respectable craftsman by day and a thief by night (inspired "The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde"). His house was here. Today it features a pub (Deacon Brodie's Tavern) and shops.
Riddle's Court (near St. Giles)
A close that leads to a courtyard with 16th-century buildings. Recently restored, it now houses a cultural center. Open to the public at certain times.
Fleshmarket Close (near Waverley Station)
The name ("flesh market") recalls the slaughterhouse that was held here. Today it is a steep alley that descends towards Waverley. Ian Rankin titled a novel ("Fleshmarket Close") after this alley.
Closes with ghost stories
Mary King's Close (the most famous)
It is not a close open to the public (it can only be visited on paid tours). It was sealed in the 17th century due to the plague and forgotten. Today it is an underground attraction. Legends speak of the ghost girl "Annie."
Mackenzie's Close (not visitable, but visible from the outside)
It is said to be haunted by the poltergeist of George Mackenzie (see Greyfriars Cemetery). The entrance is blocked.
Less known but fascinating closes
Carrubbers Close:leads to Carrubbers Church (evangelical). Quiet.
Tweeddale Court:a courtyard with an antiquarian bookstore (Edinburgh Books).
Milne's Court:a restored close with luxury apartments.
Old Stamp Office Close:former stamp office.
How to explore the closes
On foot:for free. Most are open 24/7 (but avoid going alone at night, they are poorly lit).
Guided tours:"Edinburgh's Close Tours" (£10, 1 hour) tells stories and anecdotes.
App:"Secret Edinburgh" (free) has a close walking route.
Stories to know before entering
Deacon Brodie:by day a carpenter and city councilor, by night a burglar. He was hanged in 1788 with a gallows he designed himself.
The plague of 1645:Was Mary King's Close sealed with the sick inside? Not true: the sick were taken to the hospital, but the legend persists.
The ghost of Annie:a girl abandoned during the plague. Visitors leave toys and letters in her room (Mary King's Close tour).
How much time to dedicate
Quick walk (see 5 closes):1 hour.
In-depth exploration (reading plaques, entering courtyards):2 hours.
FAQ
Are all closes open to the public?
No, some are private (courtyards of residences). Respect the "Private" signs.
Are they safe at night?
Poorly lit, slippery cobblestones. Bring a flashlight (cell phone). Avoid going alone.
Can I enter with a stroller?
Difficult: many have steps or are narrow. Better to use a baby carrier.
Which close is the longest?
Warriston's Close (about 200 meters).
Are the closes free?
Yes, except for Mary King's Close (paid tour).
Which close has the best view of the castle?
Advocate's Close.
Peek around every corner
Theholidays in EdinburghThey become an adventure when you get lost in the closes of the Royal Mile. They are fragments of a time when the city was a labyrinth of courtyards and secret passages, among nobles, thieves, and plague victims. No tickets are needed, no guides are needed: just a pair of comfortable shoes and the desire to peek around every corner. And if you hear a step behind you, don't turn around: it might just be the wind (or maybe not).
For a complete overview of periods, itineraries, budgets, and transportation in the Scottish capital, check out our complete guide to holidays in Edinburgh.
Review date:March 21, 2026