Every vacation in Sarajevo is a journey into memory, and among the places that hold the weight of recent history, the Kovači cemetery occupies a central place.
This is not simply a graveyard: it is a political and identity symbol, the place where the Bosnian nation has buried its martyrs and where its first president rests. Perched on the hill overlooking Baščaršija, the Kovači cemetery represents the indissoluble bond between the sacrifice of Sarajevo's defenders and the birth of modern Bosnia and Herzegovina .
The Place between Ottoman History and Recent Memory
The Kovači cemetery is a place of historical stratification. Its origins date back to the 15th century, during the Ottoman rule, as evidenced by the ancient gray stone tombstones (nišani) that still dot the slope today, some of which have engraved turbans indicating the rank or religious status of the deceased . However, it is its contemporary function that makes it a national symbol.
In the early 1990s, much of the grassy slope was free, making it the natural choice as the main burial place for the fallen soldiers of the Bosnian Army during the Siege of Sarajevo (1992-1995) . Today, about 2,500 white marble tombstones line up in orderly rows on the hill, a visual impact that strikes anyone looking from the old city .
A Striking Vision
The layout of the cemetery is in itself a political message. Perched on the heights, it overlooks Baščaršija and the historic center: the defenders of the city watch from above over what they have protected. The white tombstones, many of which are adorned with the Bosnian lily (Ljiljan), a national symbol, stand out sharply against the dark green of the cypress trees and the red roofs of the city, creating an image of solemn majesty.
The Tomb of Alija Izetbegović: A National Pilgrimage
In the center of the cemetery, under a canopy of perforated stone, stands a modest obelisk: it is the tomb of Alija Izetbegović, the first president of independent Bosnia and Herzegovina. His choice to be buried here, among the common soldiers who fell in war, is a gesture of strong political and symbolic significance, linking him indissolubly to the "martyrs" of the defense of Sarajevo.
For Bosniaks, his tomb is a place of national pilgrimage, a must-see for those visiting the capital. A plaque mounted nearby bears his words, a testament to his commitment to a democratic and multiethnic Bosnia:
"In the difficult days of 1991-1995, when a great darkness fell over much of the Balkans, a light still reached this war-torn city. Sarajevo will recognize that privilege as an obligation for the future. Naturally, an obligation towards the pact of democracy."
The Wall of Memory and the Victims of the Siege
Since the cemetery hosts "only" 2,500 fallen, while during the siege it is estimated that about 11,600 residents lost their lives, a long commemorative wall, covered with marble slabs engraved with hundreds of names, pays tribute to those who are buried elsewhere or never found . This wall transforms the cemetery from a burial place to a collective monument, symbolically embracing all the victims of the war.
A Place of Pilgrimage and Reflection
Visitors describe the Kovači cemetery as a deeply moving place, conveying the "weight of the city's history" . Walking among the gravestones, reading the dates of birth and death (often between 21 and 40 years old) and observing the family dedications, makes the human tribute of the conflict more powerful than any museum . It is a place of silence and contemplation, where the politics of memory becomes a personal and collective experience.
FAQ - Kovači Cemetery
Where is the Kovači Cemetery located?
It is located in the Kovači neighborhood, on the hill overlooking Baščaršija, about ten minutes on foot from the historic center of Sarajevo .
Who is buried in the Kovači Cemetery?
In addition to about 2,500 soldiers of the Bosnian Army who fell during the siege of Sarajevo (1992-1995), the cemetery hosts the grave of Alija Izetbegović, the first president of Bosnia and Herzegovina. There are also ancient Ottoman gravestones dating back to the 15th century .
What is the political significance of the cemetery?
It is considered a national symbol, the burial place of the "martyrs" of the defense of Sarajevo. The presence of the grave of President Izetbegović, who chose to be buried among the common soldiers, reinforces its role as a political and identity monument for the Bosnian nation .
Is the cemetery open to visitors?
Yes, it is a public memorial open every day from dawn to dusk. Admission is free .
What to see at the Kovači Cemetery?
The grave of Alija Izetbegović, the commemorative wall with the names of the victims, the rows of white tombstones with the Bosnian lily, the ancient Ottoman tombstones, and a small exhibition space dedicated to the siege of Sarajevo .
How should one behave during the visit?
As it is a sacred and memorial place, modest clothing and respectful, silent behavior are required .
The Kovači Cemetery
The Kovači Cemetery is much more than a burial place: it is the political and memorial heart of contemporary Sarajevo. Visiting it during a holiday in Sarajevo means confronting the price of Bosnian freedom and independence, understanding the deep connection between the war-torn city and its national identity, and honoring the memory of those who defended the ideal of a multiethnic Bosnia. It is a stop that transforms the tourist visit into an experience of historical and human reflection, leaving an indelible mark.
To explore all aspects of this extraordinary city, consult our complete guide: Discover the places of memory during your holiday in Sarajevo.
Revision date: August 2026