Neapolitan Desserts: Sfogliatella, Babà, and Pastiera

Neapolitan Desserts: A Guide to Sfogliatella, Babà, Pastiera, and the Best Pastry Shops

Naples is not just pizza and ragù. The Neapolitan pastry tradition is ancient, rich, and varied. During theholidays in Naples, you cannot leave the city without having tasted at least one sfogliatella (either riccia or frolla), a rum babà, a slice of pastiera (especially at Easter), and the zeppole di San Giuseppe. This guide explains the differences between the various desserts, where to find the authentic ones, and how to recognize a quality pastry shop from a tourist trap.

The Great Classics of Neapolitan Pastry

Sfogliatella Riccia vs Sfogliatella Frolla: Which One to Choose

Sfogliatella riccia

It's the most famous one, the one with "angel hair" (the layers of pasta that flake). The dough is hand-stretched until it's very thin, then rolled, filled with sheep's ricotta, semolina, sugar, and cinnamon, and baked. It must be hot and crispy. If it is soft or lukewarm, it is not fresh.

Sfogliatella frolla (o “Riccia”)

Lesser known outside Naples but much loved by locals. The pastry is a shortcrust enriched with lard, making it crumbly. The filling is similar but the texture is softer and buttery. Perfect for those who don't like the crispiness of the "riccia."

Where to eat the best sfogliatelle in NaplesWhere to eat the best sfogliatelle in Naples

• Attanasio Pastry Shop (via dei Tribunali, 80): historic, open since 1920. Hot and crispy sfogliatelle. Note: long queues in the morning.

• Pasticceria Pintauro (via Toledo, 275): claims the invention of the sfogliatella (1830). Excellent riccia.

• Pasticceria Scaturchio(Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19): famous for the sfogliatella frolla and for the “ministeriale” (chocolate dessert).

• Pasticceria Giovanni Scaturchio(via dei Tribunali, 58): different from the previous one, also excellent for the riccia.

How to recognize a good sfogliatella

• It must be hot (just baked)

• The layers must be thin and crispy, not thick and chewy

• The filling should not be liquid or too dry

• The color is golden, not burnt or pale

Babà: The Soaked Cake Symbol of Naples

The babà (or baba) is a dessert of Polish origin (baba means "old woman") adopted and transformed by the Neapolitans. It is a small yeast cake shaped like a mushroom, soaked in rum, limoncello, or other essences. A good babà must bevery moistbut not soggy,fragrantbut not aggressively alcoholic.

Varieties of babà

• Babà with rum:the classic, with white or dark rum.

• Babà with limoncello:a fresher and less alcoholic version.

• Filled babà:with pastry cream or whipped cream inside.

• Savory babà:an appetizer with vegetables or cured meats (rare, but it exists).

Where to eat the best babà in Naples

• Pasticceria Scaturchio(Piazza San Domenico): classic babà, dry on the outside and moist on the inside. Excellent.

• Pasticceria Poppella(via Santa Brigida, 72): famous for the “snowflake” (milk dessert), but the babà is also great.

• Pasticceria Capparelli(via dei Tribunali, 76): giant babà (shareable portion) and mini babà.

• Pasticceria Bellavia(via Pignasecca, 50): one of the best rum babà in the historic center.

Pastiera: The Neapolitan Easter Cake

Pastiera is the quintessential Easter dessert, but in Naples, it can be found all year round in the best pastry shops. The original recipe includes: cooked wheat, sheep ricotta, eggs, sugar, candied fruit, andorange blossom water(a secret ingredient that gives it its unmistakable fragrance).

Characteristics of a good pastiera

• The crust should be thin and crumbly

• The filling should be compact but soft, not spongy

• The scent of orange blossom should be noticeable, not just cinnamon

• The candied fruit should be small and evenly distributed

Where to eat pastiera in Naples

• Pasticceria Pintauro(via Toledo): one of the best, available all year.

• Pasticceria Scaturchio: classic version without candied fruit (for those who don't like it).

• Pasticceria Gambardella(via Chiaia, 135): artisanal pastiera made with top-quality wheat.

Zeppole di San Giuseppe: The Spring Dessert

Zeppole are traditionally eaten on March 19th (Father's Day), but today they can be found from February to April. They are made of choux pastry (like cream puffs), fried or baked, filled with pastry cream and topped with a syrupy cherry. Thefriedversion is more traditional, while thebakedone is lighter.

Where to eat zeppole in Naples

• Pasticceria Poppella(via Santa Brigida): giant fried zeppole.

• Pasticceria Capparelli: baked zeppole with very fragrant cream.

• Street fry shops(e.g. La Masardona): freshly made fried zeppole, €2 each.

Christmas Sweets: Struffoli, Roccocò, and Susamielli

If you visit Naples during theChristmas holidays, don't miss:

• Struffoli:small balls of fried dough, mixed with honey, colorful sprinkles, and candy. They are eaten in bites, sticky and very sweet.

• Roccocò:hard cookie shaped like a donut, with almonds, walnuts, orange peels, and spices (cinnamon, cloves). It is dipped in mulled wine or sweet wine.

• Susamielli:cookies shaped like an "S" with sugar glaze and almonds. Less hard than roccocò.

Where to find them

All historic pastry shops produce them at Christmas. The best: Pintauro, Scaturchio, and the artisan shops on Via San Gregorio Armeno.

The Best Historic Pastry Shops in Naples (In Summary)

When to Eat Sweets in Naples (Hours and Tips)

• Sfogliatella:it is eaten for breakfast (8:00-10:00) or as an afternoon snack (16:00-18:00). It’s better warm.

• Babà:after lunch or after dinner. It can be accompanied with coffee or a dessert wine.

• Pastiera:for breakfast or as dessert. A slice is generous.

• Zeppole:only in season (February-April). Better warm.

Beware of tourist traps

• If a pastry shop in the historic center has windows full of sweets already wrapped in cellophane, it is not artisanal.

• If the sfogliatella costs less than €1.50, it is probably industrial.

• If the babà is dry and hard, it is at least 2 days old.

Quick Recipe: How to Reheat a Sfogliatella at Home (If You Take a Souvenir)

If you take some sfogliatelle and want to enjoy them warm at home:

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.

2. Bake the sfogliatelle for 3-4 minutes (no more, or they will burn).

3. Take them out and wait 1 minute before eating.

   Microwave is not recommended: it makes the pastry rubbery.

FAQ

What is the difference between sfogliatella riccia and frolla?

The riccia has flaky, crispy layers; the frolla has a soft and crumbly pastry. Both have the same filling of ricotta and semolina.

Where can you eat the best sfogliatella in Naples?

Attanasio (via dei Tribunali) for the hot riccia; Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico) for the frolla.

Is babà always alcoholic?

The classic babà is soaked in rum. There are non-alcoholic versions with sugar syrup and lemon, but they are less traditional.

What is the typical Neapolitan Easter dessert?

The pastiera. It can also be found out of season, but its season is March-April.

How much does a sfogliatella cost in Naples?

Between €1.50 and €2.50. If you pay more than €3, it's a tourist price.

Can I bring sfogliatelle on a plane?

Yes, but put them in your carry-on (those in checked luggage break). The pastiera is sturdier.

What are struffoli?

Fried dough balls with honey and sprinkles. A typical Neapolitan Christmas dessert.

Every dessert has a story.

Neapolitan pastry is a separate chapter in the city's culinary culture. During yourvacation in Naples, don't limit yourself to pizza: treat yourself to an afternoon stop at a historic pastry shop, order a warm sfogliatella and a coffee, and watch life go by. Every dessert has a story, a season, and a technique. Learning to recognize them will allow you to savor Naples in a deeper and more authentic way. And if you return home with a box of babà or a whole pastiera, you'll know you've brought a piece of true Neapolitan tradition with you.

For a complete overview of Neapolitan cuisine – from pizza to desserts, including ragù and street food – consult the definitive guide to the culinary culture of Naples and its surroundings..

Revision date:April 16, 2026