Buckingham Palace and the Changing of the Guard: A Guide to the Ceremony
Buckingham Palace is the official residence of the British sovereign in London. But for most visitors, the real spectacle is not the lavish State Rooms, but the ceremony that takes place outside: theChanging of the Guard. It is one of the most photographed and beloved events by tourists, a military ritual that combines precision, music, and centuries-old tradition. In this guide, you will find everything you need to make the most of your visit: times, days, the best spots, curiosities, and tips to avoid the crowd.
Buckingham Palace: Residence of the Sovereigns
Before discussing the ceremony, it is useful to know about the palace that serves as the backdrop.Buckingham Palacehas been the London residence of the monarch since 1837, when Queen Victoria moved in at the beginning of her reign. Today, it is the administrative headquarters of the monarchy and the official residence of King Charles III when he is in London.
The palace has 775 rooms, including 52 royal bedrooms and 188 staff rooms. It also has a swimming pool, a cinema, a post office, and its own police station. The garden (Buckingham Palace Garden) is the largest private garden in London, with 16 acres of lawns and lakes.
Visit to the State Rooms
During the summer months (July-September), when the king is not residing in London, theState Rooms(State Rooms), where the sovereign entertains official guests. Tickets cost about £30-40 and should be booked well in advance.
What is the Changing of the Guard?
The Changing of the Guard is the ceremony in which the guard unit protecting Buckingham Palace is replaced by a new unit. The guards, famous for their red jackets and tall bearskin hats, are real soldiers of the British Army.
The ceremony is accompanied by a military band that plays marches, national anthems, and sometimes popular songs or movie soundtracks. It is not just a tourist attraction, but a functioning military ritual: the guards leaving service have just completed a 24-48 hour guard shift.
When does the Changing of the Guard take place?
Days and times
Days:Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday (from August to May). In June and July, often every day.
Time: 10:45the procession begins,11:00the actual ceremony begins.
Duration:About 45 minutes (until around 11:45).
Important: always check
Dates and times may change due to:
Bad weather:In case of heavy rain, the ceremony may be canceled or shortened.
Royal events:If the king is in residence or there are state events, the ceremony may be modified.
Rehearsals:Sometimes the band is engaged in other ceremonies.
Advice:Check the official Royal Family website or the "Changing of the Guard" app the day before.
Where does the ceremony take place?
The ceremony mainly takes place in theForecourtof Buckingham Palace, in front of the main gate. But the procession involves several areas:
The stages of the ceremony
Departure of the new guards (10:45):The new guards depart from theWellington Barracks(a 5-minute walk, on Birdcage Walk, near St. James's Park). They march along Birdcage Walk to the palace.
Arrival and formation (11:00):The new guards enter the forecourt and line up. The old guards (who have been on duty for 24-48 hours) line up in front.
Change of guard (11:00-11:30):The captain of the new guards hands over the symbolic key to the captain of the old guards. The band plays.
Departure of the old guards (11:30-11:45):The old guards leave the palace and march back to the Wellington Barracks.
Where to position yourself for a better view?
The problem with the Changing of the Guard is the crowd: on weekends and in summer, thousands of people gather. Here are the best spots.
1. In front of the main gate (The Forecourt)
Advantage:The best view of the central ceremony.
Disadvantage:The most crowded spot. You need to arrive at least 60-90 minutes early (by 9:30 or earlier).
2. Along Birdcage Walk (the guards' route)
Advantage:See the guards marching up close. Much less crowded than the square.
Disadvantage:You can't see the central ceremony in the square.
3. The Victoria Memorial (the statue in front of the palace)
Advantage:Overall view, you can see the square from afar and the procession arriving.
Disadvantage:You are far away (about 100 meters). Bring a telephoto lens.
4. St. James's Palace (at the top of The Mall)
Advantage:You can see the guards coming in and out.
Disadvantage:You can't see the main ceremony.
Tips for viewing spots
Arrive early:For the square, between 9:00-9:30. For Birdcage Walk, between 10:00-10:15.
Bring a folding stool if you have children:You will be standing for a long time.
Do not bring open umbrellas:They are dangerous in the crowd. Bring a raincoat.
The guards: uniforms and curiosities
Why do they wear the bearskin hat?
The tall fur hat (Bearskin) is about 30 cm high and weighs about 0.7-1 kg. The tradition dates back to the Battle of Waterloo (1815), when British guards wore similar hats to appear taller and more imposing. Today the fur is synthetic (since 2011).
How to distinguish the different regiments?
The guards all wear the red jacket and the bearskin hat. But they can be distinguished by the arrangement of the buttons on the jacket and the feather on the left side of the hat.
| Regiment | Buttons | Feather |
|---|---|---|
| Grenadier Guards | Singles, equidistant | White (on the left side) |
| Coldstream Guards | In pairs | Red (on the right side) |
| Scots Guards | In groups of three | No feather |
| Irish Guards | In groups of four | Blue (on the right side) |
| Welsh Guards | In groups of five | White-green (on the left side) |
Why don’t they smile?
The guards are on active duty. They must not be distracted, talk, or smile. Despite tourists making faces and shouting, they maintain a stoic expression. It is military discipline, not rudeness.
The band
The band does not only play military marches. Every day it chooses a different program. You can hear:
Traditional British marches (e.g. "The British Grenadiers").
National anthems (British and from other countries).
Pop songs (Beatles, ABBA, Queen, Adele).
Movie soundtracks (Rocky, Gladiator, James Bond).
On special occasions, the band may perform pieces in honor of foreign guests.
The Changing of the Guard on horseback (Horse Guards)
There is also a Changing of the Guard on horseback, less famous but easier to see because it is less crowded. It takes place atHorse Guards Parade, a short walk from Buckingham Palace (on the other side of St. James's Park).
Times:Monday-Saturday at 11:00, Sunday at 10:00.
Duration:30 minutes.
Access:Free, barrier-free. Much less crowded.
When is the king in residence?
You can tell if the sovereign is at Buckingham Palace by looking at the flag on the building.
Royal Standard (royal flag):Flies when the sovereign is in residence. It is a flag with four quadrants (England, Scotland, Ireland).
Union Jack:Flies when the sovereign is not in London.
During the king's residencies, the ceremony may be slightly different (more formal), but it still takes place.
Practical tips for attending the Changing of the Guard
Check the times the night before:The official Royal Family website is the most reliable source.
Arrive early:For a good spot, 60-90 minutes beforehand. Bring a book or listen to a podcast.
Do not bring large luggage:There is no storage. Medium backpacks are okay, suitcases are not.
Dress in layers and bring a raincoat:Even in summer, the weather can change.
Use the subway:Do not drive. The nearest subway stations are Green Park (Piccadilly, Victoria, Jubilee) or St. James's Park (Circle, District).
If you have children, keep them by your side:The crowd is dense and small children can get lost.
Do not touch the guards:Even though they look like statues, they are armed soldiers. Touching a guard is a crime.
Do not cross the ropes:The roped-off areas are for the guards and horses.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is the Changing of the Guard held every day?
No. From August to May, it takes place on alternate days: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. From June to July, it is often every day. Always check the official website.
What time does the Changing of the Guard start?
The ceremony starts at 11:00 sharp. The procession of the new guards leaves at 10:45 from Wellington Barracks. The ceremony ends around 11:45.
How much does it cost to attend the Changing of the Guard?
Free.It is a public event, no ticket is required.
What is the best place to see the Changing of the Guard?
It depends. If you want to see the main ceremony, in front of the gate of Buckingham Palace (arrive by 9:30). If you want to see the guards up close without the crowd, along Birdcage Walk.
It's raining, does the Changing of the Guard still take place?
If it is lightly raining, yes. If it is raining heavily, the ceremony may be canceled or reduced to a "wet ceremony" (without a band). Check the official social media on the morning of.
Can I talk to or take photos of the guards?
Yes, you can take photos (without flash). Do not talk to the guards: they are on active duty and cannot respond. Do not touch them at all.
What happens if a guard feels unwell?
The guards are trained to faint in a controlled manner (falling forward, without injuring themselves). In that case, other soldiers will intervene.
How much does a guard's uniform weigh?
The full uniform (jacket, hat, rifle, ammunition) weighs about 10-15 kg.
Does the Changing of the Guard take place in other locations?
Yes, also at theTower of London(every day at 11:00) and at theWindsor Castle(Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday at 11:00). The ones at Windsor are smaller and less crowded.
Can I watch the Changing of the Guard with a guided tour?
Yes, many agencies offer guided tours that include the Changing of the Guard. They usually also include a guided visit to Westminster. It's not necessary, but it can be convenient if you want to skip the crowd and have an expert explain.
Summary Table
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Location | Buckingham Palace, Forecourt |
| Days | Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday (variable) |
| Time | Starts at 11:00 (parade at 10:45) |
| Duration | About 45 minutes |
| Cost | Free |
| Subway | Green Park (Piccadilly, Victoria, Jubilee) |
| Recommended Arrival | 9:00-9:30 for a good spot |
| Accessibility | Yes (space for wheelchairs, but crowded) |
| Bad Weather | Possible cancellation or reduction |
Facts about the Changing of the Guard
The tradition of the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace dates back to1660.
Every year, more than15 milliontourists attend the ceremony.
The guards are real soldiers: they have fought in Iraq, Afghanistan, and other missions.
The bearskin hat (now synthetic) costs about £600 each.
During the pandemic (2020-2021), the ceremony was suspended for 18 months.
A guard can faint from the heat: the wool jacket and heavy hat make summer temperatures very tough.
The band once played "Happy Birthday" for Queen Elizabeth II (but she wasn't there).
Military tradition, spectacle, and folklore
Attending the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace is a typically London experience, a mix of military tradition, spectacle, and folklore. It’s not the most exciting ceremony in the world (there's a lot of waiting and a big crowd), but it’s part of the trip to London. To enjoy it best, arrive early, position yourself along Birdcage Walk if you want to avoid the crowd, or in front of the gate if you want the best view. Always check the times the night before and be patient. After the ceremony, take the opportunity to visit St. James's Park, right next door. Enjoy the show!
Review date:April 2026