In the heart of the Piedmont plain, where the Tanaro and Bormida rivers meet, lies a city that has managed to transform a past of military defense into a present marked by culture, industry, and quality of life. Alessandria is not always among the most celebrated tourist destinations in Northern Italy, yet it holds a historical, architectural, and gastronomic heritage of great charm. Founded in 1168 as a stronghold of the Lombard League against Barbarossa, the city has maintained a geometric, rational imprint over the centuries, with wide avenues and regular squares. This article is a complete guide to discovering Alessandria, designed for those who wish to know the city in all its facets: from the famous fortified Citadel to the artisanal traditions, from the historic center to the excellences of the surrounding territory.
Why Visit Alessandria
Alessandria is often an underestimated destination, but those who decide to stop are surprised by its authenticity. Unlike other more famous Piedmontese cities like Turin, Alba, or Asti, Alessandria offers a quieter atmosphere, away from mass tourism. Its strengths are many: the Citadel, one of the largest and best-preserved fortified complexes in Europe; the Borsalino Hat Museum, which tells a unique industrial epic; the elegant squares and porticoes that invite you to stroll; and a gastronomic tradition that makes good drinking and good eating a true lifestyle. Furthermore, its strategic position between Langhe, Monferrato, and Lomellina makes it an excellent starting point for exploring the beauties of Southern Piedmont.
The History of Alessandria in Brief
Founded in 1168 under the name of Alessandria (in honor of Pope Alexander III, an ally of the Lombard League), the city was born as a military fortress to counter the expansionist ambitions of Frederick Barbarossa. The Emperor, in retaliation, razed it to the ground in 1174, but the city was promptly rebuilt and consolidated its strategic importance in the following centuries. In the 14th century, it came under the rule of the Visconti of Milan, and then in the 18th century became part of the Kingdom of Sardinia (Savoy rule). It was during this period that the fortress was strengthened, giving rise to the monumental Citadel that we see today. In the 19th century, Alessandria was a key player in the Risorgimento: it was one of the most active cities in the carbonari uprisings and in the first war of independence. In the 20th century, the city became famous worldwide for the production of hats under the Borsalino brand, an industry that brought prosperity and international fame. Today, Alessandria is an important agricultural, industrial, and commercial center, but it has not lost its character as a human-scale city.
What to See in Alessandria: The Main Attractions
The historic center of Alessandria can be explored on foot in a few hours, but to fully appreciate it, it is advisable to dedicate at least a day. Here are the key stops.
Citadel of Alessandria
It is undoubtedly the most important monument in the city. Built between 1732 and 1827 at the behest of the Savoy, the Citadel is a star-shaped fortress (in the shape of a six-pointed star) that extends over an area of more than 74 hectares, making it one of the largest intact fortresses in Europe. The imposing defensive complex includes bastions, moats, drawbridges, powder magazines, barracks, and a large parade ground. The visit allows you to walk along the mighty walls, admire the view of the city and the Tanaro River, and understand the evolution of military architecture. Today, the Citadel is partially open to visitors and also hosts cultural events and temporary exhibitions. It is possible to stroll freely outside, while the interiors (such as the powder magazine and barracks) are accessible through guided tours organized periodically.
Piazza della Libertà and Piazza Marconi
The heart of city life. Piazza della Libertà (formerly Piazza Grande) is one of the most elegant squares in Piedmont, surrounded by 18th-century arcades and enhanced by the Government Palace and the Statue of Vittorio Emanuele II. Overlooking the square is the Teatro Comunale, a neoclassical gem. A short distance away is Piazza Marconi, dominated by the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Mark. The Cathedral, built between the 19th and 20th centuries, has a neoclassical facade and houses works of art and the tomb of Saint Baudolino, the patron saint of the city.
Borsalino Hat Museum
Alessandria is the home of the famous Borsalino hat, founded in 1857 by Giuseppe Borsalino. This museum, set up inside the former factory, tells the story of the company and its iconic product. Visitors can admire vintage machinery, hats of every era and shape (from the classic fedora to more eccentric models), advertising posters, and testimonies of the social and cultural impact this industry has had on the city. The museum is not just for fashion enthusiasts, but for anyone who wants to understand how an everyday object became an international symbol of elegance.
Ethnographic Museum and Peasant Culture
Housed in an ancient noble palace, this museum offers a glimpse into the rural and popular life of the Alessandria area. Agricultural tools, reconstructions of domestic environments, traditional clothing, and everyday objects tell the story of past generations. It is an authentic dive into local memory.
Church of Santa Maria di Castello
One of the oldest churches in Alessandria (dating back to the 15th century), located on a slight rise near the river. The facade is made of brick in a gable style, the interior has three naves and houses frescoes and paintings from the Piedmontese and Lombard schools. The bell tower is a visual landmark for those approaching the city.
Palazzo Ghilini
One of the most beautiful Baroque palaces in Piedmont, located on Corso Roma. Currently the seat of the Province of Alessandria. It is possible to admire its monumental facade and, on special occasions (such as the FAI Days), visit the frescoed interiors.
The Tanaro River and the Walls
The ancient city walls, partially still visible, line the Tanaro River. A walk along the banks offers picturesque views, especially at sunset, and allows you to see the city from a different perspective. Recently, some sections have been redeveloped as pedestrian and cycling areas.
What to See Around Alessandria
The province of Alessandria is rich in villages, castles, and hilly landscapes.
Monferrato: the historical region that extends between Asti and Alessandria, known for its wines (Barbera, Grignolino, Freisa) and its landscapes of gentle hills, a UNESCO heritage site. Villages to see: Casale Monferrato (an art city with the Synagogue), Ovada, Acqui Terme (famous for its Roman baths and sulfur waters), Gavi (with the Fortress and Gavi DOCG wine).
Novi Ligure: a town famous for the Fort of Gavi (not far away) and for the production of sweets and chocolate.
Tortona: an ancient Roman city, with the Cathedral and the Diocesan Museum.
Val Borbera: a wild and little-frequented Apennine valley, ideal for hiking, with villages like Cabella Ligure and Mongiardino Ligure.
Lake Ortiglieto: an artificial basin immersed in greenery, a destination for picnics and walks.
When to Visit Alessandria: Climate and Seasons
Alessandria has a humid subtropical climate with cold, wet winters and hot summers. Fog, once common, is now less frequent.
Spring (March-May): mild temperatures (15-22 degrees), ideal for walking in the city center and visiting the Citadel. Nature is lush, and festivals begin. Best time.
Summer (June-August): hot and humid (often above 30 degrees). The days are long, but the heat can be heavy for walking. Ideal for visiting museums (air-conditioned) and for evenings in courtyards and squares.
Autumn (September-November): pleasant temperatures until October, then cooler. It is the season of major food and wine events (grape harvest, chestnuts, truffles). A great time.
Winter (December-February): cold (with possible lows below zero), humid, sometimes foggy. Perfect for visiting the Citadel when it is less crowded and for enjoying hot dishes and full-bodied red wines.
How to Get Around Alexandria and the Surroundings
The city is compact and easily walkable. Here are the main options.
On foot: the historic center (from Piazza della Libertà to the Cathedral, up to the Citadel) can be comfortably covered by walking. The distance from the center to the Citadel is about 1.5 km (20-25 minutes on foot).
Bicycle: many areas are flat and equipped with bike lanes. There is a bike-sharing service.
Urban buses: connect the suburbs and the train station to the center. Useful for reaching the Citadel from the station.
Car: not recommended in the center due to ZTL (limited traffic zones) and limited parking. Park and ride facilities are available outside the center.
Train: the Alexandria station (on the Turin-Genoa and Milan-Bologna lines) is well connected. It is the best way to reach nearby cities (Turin, Genoa, Milan, Asti, Novi Ligure).
What to Eat in Alexandria: Local Specialties
Alexandrian cuisine is part of the great Piedmontese tradition, but with some local peculiarities.
Agnolotti al plin: the most famous stuffed pasta from Piedmont, served with melted butter and sage or with roast.
Tajarin: thin egg tagliolini, often dressed with ragù or white truffle (in the autumn season).
Bollito misto with bagnet verd and bagnet ross: boiled meat served with two typical sauces (green based on parsley and anchovies, red based on tomato and peppers).
Finanziera: a rich stew of offal, mushrooms, and capers, a dish from the poor tradition.
Bonet: a spoon dessert made with chocolate, coffee, and amaretti, typical of Piedmont.
Amaretti di Mombaruzzo: soft or dry cookies, produced in the village of the same name in the province of Alessandria.
Cheeses: Toma from Piedmont, Raschera, Castelmagno (from the province of Cuneo, but widespread).
Cured meats: Varzi salami (DOP), cooked ham, coppa, pancetta.
Wines: the wines of Monferrato Alessandrino: Barbera del Monferrato, Grignolino, Freisa, Dolcetto, and whites like Gavi (Cortese di Gavi DOCG).
Events and Traditions
Alessandria and its province are animated by events that celebrate history, craftsmanship, and cuisine.
Feast of San Baudolino (November 10): religious and civil celebrations, with historical reenactments.
Borsalino Events: occasionally, exhibitions and parades dedicated to the historical hat are organized.
Douja d’Or (September): one of the most important wine exhibitions in Piedmont, with wine tastings, cultural events, and food and wine themed shows. It takes place in the historic center and at the Citadel.
Christmas Markets (December): traditional stalls in Piazza della Libertà and along the porticos.
Carnival of Alessandria: parades of floats and masks.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
To make the most of your time in the city, keep these suggestions in mind.
Comfortable shoes: you will walk a lot, especially to get from the Citadel to the center.
Water and a hat: in summer, do not underestimate the heat of the Po Valley. Always carry a bottle of water.
Learn about the Citadel: before you go, check which areas are accessible and if guided tours are available (for the interiors). The exteriors are always free.
Museum hours: the museums (Borsalino, Ethnographic) have reduced hours, especially on holidays. Plan your visit in advance.
Clothing: appropriate attire is required for visiting churches and cathedrals.
Evening walks: the porticos of Alessandria are very charming in the evening when the lights come on and the venues come alive.
FAQ Alessandria
How much time is needed to visit Alessandria?
For a complete visit of the historic center (Piazza della Libertà, Cathedral, Borsalino Museum, Ethnographic Museum, walk along the walls), it takes about 4-5 hours. If you add the Citadel (at least 2-3 hours, especially if you take a guided tour), it is advisable to dedicate a whole day (8 hours). A stay of a couple of days allows you to visit the surroundings as well.
Is the Citadel of Alessandria freely accessible?
Yes, the outdoor area and the bastions are freely accessible on foot. The internal spaces (such as the barracks, the powder magazine, the underground walkways) can only be visited with guided tours organized by associations or local entities. It is advisable to check with the tourist office for schedules and details.
What is the best way to reach the Citadel?
On foot from the center (about 20-25 minutes), following Via XX Settembre and then the bridge over the Tanaro. By bus from the train station (urban lines). By car, park near the main entrance (free or paid guarded parking).
Is Alessandria a child-friendly city?
Yes. The Citadel is a huge space where children can run freely and imagine battles between soldiers. The Borsalino Hat Museum is also interesting for them (shapes, colors, curious stories). There are public parks, such as the Castle Park, and play areas. Distances are manageable.
What to see around Alessandria in a day?
On a day trip, you can visit: Casale Monferrato (art city and synagogue), Acqui Terme (thermal baths and historic center), Novi Ligure (Fortress of Gavi) or the Borbera Valley (nature). Choose a destination based on your interests.
Is the Borsalino Museum worth a visit?
Absolutely yes, even if you are not a fashion enthusiast. The museum tells a fascinating industrial and social story: how a small artisan workshop became a global icon. The setup is well-curated, and the objects are rare and evocative. It is one of the most unique experiences in Piedmont.
What is the best time to avoid the crowd?
Alexandria is not generally crowded with tourists, but the weather is better in spring and autumn. To visit the Citadel in peace, avoid weekends when events are taking place (Douja d’Or in September). Winters are not crowded but cold.
Can the Citadel be visited in the rain?
Partially yes: the square and the bastions are outdoors and therefore unprotected. Guided tours of the interiors (if available) are indoors. If it rains, it's better to focus on the museums and the porticoes of the historic center.
Alexandria
Alexandria is a city that does not try to shout its beauty, but offers it discreetly to those who know how to seek it. Walking among its porticoes, discovering the epic of the Borsalino hat, getting lost in the vastness of the Citadel, and finally sitting in a square for a glass of Barbera: these are small great experiences that tell the authentic soul of Piedmont. Alexandria is not just a crossroads of roads and railways; it is a place where time seems to flow more slowly, where the welcome is genuine, and where every corner hides a story. If you are planning a trip to Northern Italy, do not overlook this city: it deserves much more than a quick stop. Allow yourself at least a day to get to know it, and you will likely return to explore its hills and villages. Enjoy discovering the city of Alexandria and its extraordinary territory.
Here is a list of things to visit in Alessandria:
Citadel of Alessandria (star-shaped fortress)
Piazza della Libertà (formerly Piazza Grande)
Piazza Marconi (with the Cathedral)
Cathedral of Saints Peter and Mark
Borsalino Hat Museum
Ethnographic Museum and Peasant Culture
Church of Santa Maria di Castello
Palazzo Ghilini
Municipal Theater
Porticoes of Via Milano and Corso Roma
Statue of Vittorio Emanuele II (Piazza della Libertà)
Monument to the Fallen (Piazza della Vittoria)
Synagogue of Alessandria
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista (known as the Tomb)
Church of Santa Maria del Carmine
Palazzo Cuttica (exhibition venue)
Corso Dante and public gardens
City walls and promenade along the Tanaro
Bridge over the Tanaro (view of the Citadel)
Museum of the River (in the surroundings, in San Salvatore Monferrato)
Abbey of Santa Maria di Rivalta Scrivia (surroundings)
Borgo di Castelceriolo
Castle Park (public gardens)
Alessandria railway station (historic architecture)
Covered market (former barracks area)
Church of San Bernardino
Post Office Building (rationalist architecture)
Villa Bellavista (historic villa)
Gardens of Piazza d’Armi
Surroundings: Casale Monferrato, Acqui Terme, Novi Ligure, Tortona
Revision date: May 19, 2026